I licked my lips as I sat perched in a taxi which zoomed across Calgary bound for Model Milk. I had visited three restaurants that day and was prepared to tackle the triple threat with true gusto. I was joined by Ashley from Travel Alberta and spent a good four hours sipping and nibbling through Chef Justin Leboe’s stellar menu.
Located in Calgary’s historic dairy building, Model Milk sits on trendy 17th Avenue. The restaurant in many ways reflects the hipster hood in which it calls home. A funky patio and bar greet guests upon arrival. While the hostess locates my seat I stare out at a bustling dining room. An ice filled antique baby bath stands to my left and features “by the glass” wine bottles which seem to relax by the staircase which lead us on to the second floor. We were seated on bar stools overlooking the kitchen which offered us the perfect opportunity to watch the culinary team here play their way through dinner service.
We spent the evening sipping through a stellar cocktail list while eyeballing studly waiters proudly sporting moustache, anchor tattoos and skinny jeans. As each dish was whisked under our nose we held our hearts and begged for our bellies to make room for more.
Fondest memories which will likely appear in Calgary-centric culinary dreams start with MM’s Mtn View Fried Chicken featuring an interpretive waffle which is better described as a crispy pillowy fritter slathered in maple. Savoury hella-good-heaven continues with rabbit bologna, shrimp and grits and an outrageous beef burger featuring maitake, ham hock and cheese curds (omg, eyes roll into the back of my skull until I hear a crack). Sweet finish blows us out of the water with MM Fat Kid Cake featuring chocolate sponge layered with vanilla cheesecake, raspberry buttercream, salty pretzel and topped with milk sorbet and sweet cherries. To the people of Calgary, good lord you are a lucky bunch!
The Feast:
Beet Lemonade
beefeater gin, beets, honey water, fresh lemon
Pear and Pisco Sour
pisco aba poached pears, gewurztraminer syrup, fresh lemon, egg whites
Bubbles For Your Troubles
aperol, cointreau, grapefruit marmalade, cava
Sabor De Soledad
beefeater gin, fresh coriander, apple juice, lemongrass syrup, tobasco, ginger beer
The Jarmusch
buffalo trace bourbon, 15 kilo coffee, tobacco syrup, port rinse
MM Pimm’s Cup
pimm’s, lemon, ginger, fresh fruit
Charred Twist Peppers
White Anchovies and Eggplant
MM Mtn View Fried Chicken
southern fried chicken, waffles, chicken gravy, maple syrup, greens
Shrimp and Grits
pepper vinegar, ham hock, fried egg
Rabbit Bologna
mortadella, beer cheese, donuts, crispy artichoke
The Burger
maitake, ham hock, cheese curds
Brant Lake Wagyu Short Rib
smoked over hay, eringi mushrooms, beet greens
Bag O’ Donuts
cinnamon sugar, rhubarb jam, vanilla cream
MM Fat Kid Cake
chocolate cake, raspberry buttercream, milk sorbet
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