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Review: Frantzen Lindeberg, Stockholm


My first meal in Stockholm was at 2 Michelin Star Restaurant Frantzen Lindeberg the countries most creative and celebrated kitchen. I brought my friend Mariel along for what we both joked may be the most fantastical meal we ever enjoy. We arrived just before 6pm and finished up just before midnight. Some 10 wine glasses were emptied and 20 plates sampled over the course of our feast.

We arrived earlier than our expected time of arrival, so typical of me.  We were greeted by a smiling giant of a doorman who immediately ushered us right to our seats. The dining room is petite and the ambiance simple, with one painting hanging to the right of the chef’s table. The space almost felt barren when we arrived. Each table in the room had nothing but a white linen tablecloth draped over it. I jokingly wondered if we were eating with our hands this evening.

Then the magic started…. our server placed a rectangular box with a sliding glass lid onto our table and said “Welcome to Frantzen Lindeberg, this is the bread we will be roasting over the fire for you later in your meal. We will let it enjoy its second rise in your company.” Mariel and I both beamed at each other. Never had I been given the opportunity to “get to know” my bread prior to eating it. We spent the next hour or so peaking over the glass as it rose at the corner of our table.

The entire dinner was a spectacle. Once the restaurant had filled to capacity I couldn’t help but laugh as each table featured the flash of a camera. These were serious culinary tourists. My people, all in one room! Highlights included fresh butter churned table side, scorched veal under our noses, a salad which was made up of 45 ingredients (and had its own dedicated menu) and an unforgettable verbena sorbet.

Wine pairings were exemplary and service was of the finest quality, exactly what you would expect from a 2 Michelin Restaurant. We left the restaurant full, a wee bit on the tipsy and inspired. As all the best meals should be.

We enjoyed:

Romate, S.A. Jerez

Moreau – Naudet, Chablis Premier Cru “Les Forests” Bourgogne

Chateau de Beauregard, Pouilly-Fuisse “Vers Pouilly” 1997 Bourgogne

Weingut Dr. Buklin-Wolf, Wachenheimer “Rechenbachel” 1999 Pfalz

Paul Jaboulet Aine, Hermitage “La Chapelle” 1999 Rhone

Foreaux, Vouvray “Moelleux” Reserve 2009 Loire

***

Prologue

Beef from A. Larsson, lichens and ash

Carrot, foie gras

“Vichyssoise” with summer truffle

Peas and beans, cream cheese of goats milk and mint

Oyster, frozen rhubarb, cream and juniper

12 days old halibut sashimi and duck egg with crab

Bonemarrow with caviar and smoked parsley

Coal flamed veal tartar, tallow from 11 years old milk cow, smoked eel, black roe

Chapter 1

Satio Tempestas

Bread baked over open fire. Just churned butter.

Yellow onion, goat’s milk, almond and liqourice

Diver scallops. Truffle pure and bouilons

Chapter 2

Janssons temptation

Whole turbot baked for four hours with white asparagus baked for three hours with pine, lemongrass and mint

Frozen lemon verbena

13 weeks old spring Dorper lamb from Klasbo farm

Epilogue

Goatmilk ice cream with grass pure. Malt, olive oil and hay ash

Beer, yeast and yolk from the first egg the hen warps

Buttermilk and roses. Hibiscus, flowers and jasmine tea.

Macarons

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